April 29: Well-rested, I made great progress today, with a partly
cloudy and windless day. I stopped in Napolean, Missouri to
meet Harry Hoy, who gave me useful information on good
stopping points ahead. He and his wife met me at my
campsite at Fort Osage, brought me dinner, and after he
took his wife home, Harry came back and camped with me.
His company was most welcome and entertaining.
20 miles traveled today.
Richard (left) and Harry.
April 30: A muggy, overcast day punctuated by a torrential
thunderstorm in the afternoon. I had the good sense to pull
over and take shelter on the bank until it passed. Rain again
overnight.
21 miles traveled today.
May 1: Passed through Kansas City today, a striking change from
what is becoming predictable scenery, although virtually
none of the city extends to the river except railroad yards
and warehouses. There was a good deal of barge and
dredging activity around K.C. - getting around these
operations was at times a challenge.
Paddled past Parkville late this afternoon, where joggers
along the riverside park waved encouragement. I think I
strained my right wrist trying to get around one of the
dredging sites.
Traveled 21 1/2 miles today. Built a campfire to dry my
boots and socks.
A bend in the river...
May 2: It rained again last night, heavily at times, but I've been
keeping dry in my tent. So far I get wetter from paddling or
getting in and out of the boat (my boots are constantly wet),
than from rain. Not a soul on the river today, not even a tug,
but I'm seeing lots of wild turkeys along this stretch, and I
hear them at night. Got beyond Leavenworth and
contemplated going further but decided not to put any extra
strain on my wrist, which is definitely strained.
Traveled 21 1/2 miles today.
May 3: Best day yet. The fifth straight day with little wind, and today
there were very few wing dikes to circumvent, giving me a
sense of what the upper sections of the river might be like. It
rained again last night - three out of the last four nights have
been wet.
I camped near a beaver lodge, and saw a beaver paddling
home at dusk, presumably after a hard day's work. Beavers
are a major pest on the river. I see their work everywhere on
downed and dying trees. My wrist held up all right today, and
I was able to average 3 mph - much better than I'd ever
expected so early in the journey. If my hands hold up, I
should be able to make the Continental Divide in time to
avoid snow.
Traveled 24 miles today.
May 4: I made good time today, but my wrist started to really act up.
I made it to the St. Joseph Boat Club, about five miles below
the city, where I hoped to meet some people who were
recommended to me by the folks in St. Charles. No one was
at the site, but fortunately a member pulled in just after me.
He let me into the building so I could phone for a car rental.
My wrist was sore enough so that I really needed to rest it,
and it seemed wiser to stop after only six hours of paddling
rather than push on at the risk of further injuring myself. I'll
give myself a full three days rest in St. Joseph, then try to
push on Monday morning.
Click here for days 28-35 of Richard's journal
