April 15: More mild weather, with a light breeze in my face. Still, I made
18 miles in 7 1/2 hours. I camped across from Portland and
fantasized about Portland, Oregon. I find myself anticipating
Jefferson City and a hot shower. My physical appearance has
been reduced to three states: wet, sandy, and muddy.
Predominantly, I'm muddy. Missouri river mud is unlike any mud
I've ever encountered. It doesn't rinse off. It doesn't even rub
off. It clings. Most mud, when watered down, washes off. Not
Missouri mud. You have to scrub it off, and even then it leaves a
residue. My kayak, my clothing, my skin is permeated with it.
By the time I get to Kansas City, I'm going to look like Adobe
Man. I was particularly aware of my appearance when I stopped
in at Herman's for supplies - the first time I've seen people since
St. Charles.
Today I passed the Gasconnade River.
Dusk on the Missouri.
April 16: The best of days and the worst of days. With no wind in the
morning I made 8 miles in 3 hours. Then a front moved through
and I made only 5 miles in 4 hours. I had hoped to make the
Osage River today, to be assured of reaching Jefferson City and
a hot shower tomorrow. I need a day's rest, and civilization.
April 17: Got up early (5:30) so I could hit the river before the winds
picked up. I find my schedule tends to coincide with sunrise and
set. Last night, for instance, I was asleep by 7:00.
I made good time and passed the Osage River this morning. By
noon the wind picked up again, and when I spotted the State
Capitol Dome rising Oz-like in the horizon, it still took me 4 hours
to go the final 6 miles. I don't know if I've ever been happier to
see a town. Wash, eat, wash, sleep, collect supplies, wash, eat,
contact the real world, and rest: that's the schedule for tonight
and tomorrow. I plan to put in again on Wednesday morning.
Total miles: 143
Total paddle time: 67 3/4 hours
The capitol dome beckons....
April 18: Rested, patched the kayak, and got supplies in Jefferson City.
People in Jefferson City couldn't have been kinder. The building
manager of the State Library allowed me to store my kayak and
gear behind the building, the manager of the Hotel deVille
treated me graciously despite the fact that I appeared on his
doorstep after a week on the river with my paddle in one hand
and a stow-bag in the other, and I looked like a refugee from the
wars: muddy from head to toe, unshaven, wild-eyed. That a
formal reception was occuring in the lobby at the time added to
the contrast. The Enterprise car rental people were also most
helpful, picking me up at the hotel and dropping me off at the
river bank on Wednesday morning. When I checked out of the
hotel, the young woman at the desk, who had heard of my
expedition, told me I was her hero! I was inspired.
April 19: For once, a tailwind! After a late start, I made great time today
I had one nervous moment late in the afternoon when a violent
thunderstorm moved through. I could see and hear it coming,
but thought I could get around just one more bend before I
would do the prudent thing and pull in for shelter. Unfortunately,
the "one more bend" was guarded by a huge sandbar - nearly
1 1/2 miles long. As I was paddling furiously to get around the
sandbar, the storm struck. Lightning bolts flashed all around
me, thunder rolled, and the skies opened up with a torrential
downpour. I didn't mind the rain, but I felt awfully exposed in
the middle of the river with all that lightning. Next time, I'll be
wiser.
Richard's lush accomodations
April 20: The storm that passed through yesterday cleared the skies, but
brought in its wake stiff headwinds, 30+ mph and easily as
strong as those I faced crossing the Mississippi. To add to my
misery, by afternoon another storm moved in, adding a cold,
driving rain to the wind.
April 21: No rain today, but the wind continued unabated until 5:00 pm.,
by which time I was too tired to take advantage of the calm. The
rest in Jefferson City must have done me good, or I must be
stronger than I was a week ago, because I still managed 34
miles in the last two days.
Click here for days 15 - 21 of Richard's journal
