July 10: Winds were a little stronger this afternoon, and skies became
threatening again. This morning was clear and calm again,
and I’ve made good time. With decent weather I should
make Ft. Peck tomorrow - the halfway point of my trek. I
stopped at 5:00 today because of the threatening skies, and
set up camp at a protected site. I have to say that setting up
my campsite at night is one of my two favorite parts of the
day (the first two hours of paddling is the other). There’s
something about pitching my tent that I find so satisfying and
reassuring, especially when I’m at a site that offers some
protection from the elements. More than setting up the tent,
it’s the whole end of the day routine that helps ease whatever
struggles I’ve had during the day. First I unload the kayak
and clean it inside out, usually with some words of gratitude
(like, "Thanks kayak for getting me this far.") Then I repack
the things I don’t need inside the kayak’s watertight
compartments, in case of rain. Then I set up the tent, which
becomes my little nest with all my creature comforts: my
sleeping bag and mattress, my food and stove, my journals
and crossword puzzle book, and my radio (which is generally
able to get the nearest weather station, is frequently able to
get a baseball game, and is only occasionally able to get
NPR). I have yet to experience a downside to camping, unlike
paddling. There have been stormy nights, but so far I’ve
been able to stay warm and dry, and I always have an
adequate supply of food. I sometimes worry about finding a
supply of good water, but if worse comes to worse I do have
my water purifier and I am on a river. All in all, I find the
camping relaxing, enjoyable, and comforting. There’s
something so simple and pure about dusk on the river bank,
with my journal, my reading, the sounds of the river gurgling
by, and the evening songs of the birds or the distant howl of
the coyotes.
July 11: I arrived in Ft. Peck this afternoon, and checked into the Ft.
Peck Hotel, one of several historic landmarks in the town. I’ll
rest up here, in preparation for my longest wilderness
section - it’s 300 miles from here to Ft. Benton, with no towns
and only one road bridge in between. The first 150 miles are
on Lake Ft. Peck, and I’m apprehensive about this last lake.
After the lake I hit what is supposed to be the most beautiful
stretch of the river, the wild and scenic Missouri which runs
the next 150 miles into Ft. Benton. I’m hoping to reach Ft.
Benton in about 2 weeks, but the weather will determine my
rate of progress.
July On Fort Peck Lake. I left Ft. Peck with renewed enthusiasm
12-17: for this journey. I think the stretch on the river between
Williston and Ft. Peck did me good - 200+ miles with no
lakes - plus I realized that Ft. Peck was the halfway point for
me. I was now truly headed for the Pacific. Still, I set out on
Fort Peck Lake with some apprehension. Since my close call
on Oahe, I’ve been convinced that the wind is trying to kill
me. Fort Peck Lake has numerous landmarks with names like
Killed Woman Creek, Hell Creek, or Deadman Coulee, and I
kept imagining that the wind god was trying to add another:
Killed Kayaker Creek, or Dead Bennett Bay. But the wind was
off harassing someone else, and I made the best of his
absence by completing the length of the lake in 5 arduous
days. It was worth the effort - now I’m rid of these damnable
lakes. Locals still refer to them as "the river", but they
resemble the river only in the sense that they’re composed of
water. Otherwise, they’re long, dull, and dangerous. Lewis
and Clark Lake held my interest - its landscape was a variety
of rolling hills and sharp cliffs, and it was only 20 miles long.
Fort Peck Lake, I have to admit, did have some good points.
It’s the first lake I’ve encountered with trees - ponderosa
pines - and an abundance of wildlife. I’ve seen numerous
deer, my first mountain sheep, and at one of my rest stops I
pulled in a coulee where an elk was bedded down. I’ve made
good time on the lakes, averaging almost 30 miles a day, but
I have no interest in revisiting them, except of course to drop
in and thank the many generous people I met along the way.
Click here for days 102 - 109 of Richard's journal